Wednesday, 15 February 2017

Wooden Jointer Plane

Another intermezzo for all tool addicts.

And another exemplar to store.

Maybe a rash purchase.








In one of my last posts I have reported that I have found another wooden plane.
To be exact it is a wooden jointer plane. During the last year some were crossing my path while I rummaged at the flea markets. Most of them had serious issues like no iron, heavily rotten, worm holes, etc. Or they have been expansive.
The luck was shining on me this time. The plane is in good, used condition. And the price was more than fair.
So I bought it. Just to complete my set of woodies.



A massive jointer


The manufacturer of this planes is a company named "Steiner".


The medallion


I've tried to find out something about them.
I did not find very much. The company was founded 1859 by Joseph Steiner and his sons. The company was closed 1991.
Meanwhile I've got a few planes of this brand. You can recognize that they are looking pretty similar to the ULMIA planes. This is not surprising if you know that Georg Ott (who is the founder of Ott better know under the trademark ULMIA), made his apprenticeship by Joseph Steiner.
So far the history.

At home I recognized that the plane has got an issue. Unfortunately the handle is broken.



Broken handle


I'm not sure what will be the best way to repair it. Just trying to insert some glue in this split?
Or shall I cut off the top completely, inserting two dowels and then gluing it together again?
What do you think? I'm thankful for every input.



Some anti rust treatment is necessary


The iron does look okay so far. That's a question of rust removal, some elbow grease, and a nice sharpening session.


Slightly cambered iron


The same for the chip breaker. Pretty okay. Rust removal, polishing and I'm done.

As you can see on the picture above the iron is slightly cambered. Should I stick with it? That doesn't make sense for jointing edges? Or?


What Else?


Beside of caring about the one or other plane the next project is in preparation.
The stock is roughly prepared.


Stock for the new project

More about that next week. Only a hint, It's about storing things, but it's not a box.

Stay curious!
Stefan
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22 comments:

  1. Ralph Boumenot15 February 2017 at 12:30

    I prefer straight irons with the corners relieved on my planes. The only cambered irons I have are on my scrub and #6. I only use the #6 for stock prep.
    On the handle I would try to gently pry it open and put epoxy in it.

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    1. Unknown16 February 2017 at 07:43

      Hi Ralph,
      I do so too. I have a rounded iron in my scrub and in a #5 for rough work. That said I think I will remove the camber from the iron.
      Regarding the handle that was my first thought too. But let's see what the others are saying ;-)
      Cheers,
      Stefan

      Delete
  2. Anonymous15 February 2017 at 13:59

    1) Opening the split is risky. I have seen somewhere somebody using a plastic foil to get glue in a split. Maybe a syringe and liquid glue?
    Maybe just one dowel on the broken side and it should never broke again.
    2)A light camber allow to take a thicker shaving on the right or on the left if the iron is wider then the board edge. Now looking P.S. it seems the camber is not necessary, shifting the plane to the right or to the left seems enough to correct out of square.
    How long is your plane?
    Sylvain

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    Replies
    1. Unknown16 February 2017 at 07:50

      Hi Sylvain,
      a method I have used several times to get glue into a split is to use dental floss. Give it a try. It is strong enough to bring it to task and fluffy enough to spread the glue.
      The plane is about 600mm. But I will double check it.
      The purpose of the camber is clear. Question is if it make sense to have a cambered iron in a jointer.
      I guess it depends on how one will use it.
      Cheers,
      Stefan

      Delete
  3. Anonymous15 February 2017 at 15:16

    here is the PS reference:
    https://paulsellers.com/2015/11/edge-planing-square-to-tilt-or-not-to-tilt/
    Sylvain

    ReplyDelete
  4. HoningTheEdge15 February 2017 at 16:17

    Thin cyanoacrylate glue in crack followed by activator would be what I would try. If that doesn't fix the problem you can always do the more labor intensive repair.

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    Replies
    1. Unknown16 February 2017 at 07:51

      Sounds like a good idea. I will take that into account.

      Delete
  5. António15 February 2017 at 17:03

    In a worst case scenario... you'll need to do a new handle... other then that, that's a great new companion to stay fit!
    You can always tell the 'Frau' its cheaper then going to the gym :)

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    Replies
    1. Unknown16 February 2017 at 07:55

      Ola António,
      oh. I think to make a new handle is not necessary at this point in time. I will try the one or the other proposal from all of the great comments.
      Btw. if you believe the 'Frau' would release me from going to the gym at the weekend only because I have bought a new toy, then my friend.... ;-)
      Cheers,
      Stefan

      Delete
  6. Matt McGrane15 February 2017 at 20:05

    Great find on the jointer plane. I agree with "HoningTheEdge" about thin CA glue. Be very careful if you try to open up the gap a little because the forward part of the handle has a small amount of wood and the top of the handle could pop right off.

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    Replies
    1. Unknown16 February 2017 at 07:56

      Hi Matt,
      thanks for the hint. I see that problem too.

      Cheers,
      Stefan

      Delete
  7. Valley Woodworker15 February 2017 at 22:05

    Pretty sure trying to squeeze glue inside the crack by opening it a little would result in breaking off the top part. I would then attempt a clean break to remove the top part altogether. Dowel would not be necessary, but you may want to drill a hole and put in a small nail (instead of a dowel) I would use epoxy and never worry about it anymore

    Yes, a small camber is normal on some jointer (see Chris Schwarz take on it) i just relieve the corners slightly on mine

    Bob

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    Replies
    1. Unknown16 February 2017 at 08:00

      Hi Bob,
      I understand. Even if the split already opens slightly I have the same fear, that the top will break. But in case of the top would have been removed and I could glue it back on.

      Cheers,
      Stefan

      Delete
  8. WHerzog - holzundleim.de15 February 2017 at 22:33

    Es gibt eine DIN Norm für Holzhobel, die von Ece, Ulmia und Steiner formuliert wurde. Deshalb sehen deren Hobel so gleich aus und es hat den grossen Vorteil dass man Hobeleisen und Keile zwischen den Fabrikaten austauschen kann, solang die Hobeltype und Grösse gleich ist

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    Replies
    1. Unknown16 February 2017 at 08:11

      Hallo Wolfram,
      das es eine DIN Norm für Holzhobel gibt wusste ich. Leider hatte ich noch keine Gelegenheit da mal reinzuschauen. Im Internet bin ich leider nicht fündig geworden und kaufen wollte ich die DIN deswegen nicht.
      Mir ist also schon klar warum die Dimensiion bei deutschen Hobel gleich sind. Ich finde nur das die ULMIA und die Steiner nebeneinander betrachte wirklich sehr gleich aussehen.
      Das war eine Rückwärtssuche. Beide Hobel in der Werkstatt nebeneinander gehalten, gewundert warum diese gleich aussehen, ein bisschen gegoogelt und meine Rückschlüsse gezogen.

      Viele Grüße
      Stefan

      ---------------------------------------------------------

      This comment is about the fact that there is an industrial norm for wooden planes in Germany which describes exactly the dimensions of the different plane types. That's one reason why the planes are looking somehow similar. The good thing is that the plane irons and the wedges are interchangeable.

      Delete
  9. Jonas Jensen15 February 2017 at 23:03

    Nice plane.
    I would saw right down through the split with a thin saw. That way both the glue surfaces inside would be clean.
    I would then glue in a small piece of veneer of the right thickness.
    This way there should be no more stress left in the handle.

    Brgds
    Jonas

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Unknown16 February 2017 at 08:13

      Hi Jonas,
      that makes sense and sounds good to me.
      I'll try to figure that out.

      Cheers,
      Stefan

      Delete
    2. I'm a OK guy16 February 2017 at 11:06

      Stefan,

      Not much to add other than: Congrats on the find it's a good looking plane.

      I think in one of the replies was mentioned using the camber for edge jointing which is why I keep a slightly cambered iron in my longer planes. If I stop to think about it about the only plane with a straight iron is the #51 shoot board plane. That is also the only iron I use a jig to sharpen, maybe related :-).

      ken

      Delete
  10. Anonymous17 February 2017 at 04:52

    First time here at your blog. Like it and i'll be back. Concerning the plane, a beauty it is. Hard to tell in the photo, but is there a fine crack opposite the big crack? Either way, i think you should gently spread the known crack. You'll be able to more easily get glue in there and you may discover other hidden faults that could later become problems if unaddressed.

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    Replies
    1. Unknown17 February 2017 at 08:23

      Hello,
      thanks for your kind words. Glad that you like my blog.
      At the first look I thought the same. But it isn't a crack. The color is changing there and in the picture it looks like a step or crack. I'm nearly sure there isn't another one :-)
      Thanks for your tip. I think I will widen the crack with a saw and inserting a thin piece of Beech.
      Talk soon.
      Cheers,
      Stefan

      Delete
  11. Anonymous18 February 2017 at 01:43

    Hi Stefan,

    Enjoy your blogs immensely.

    Regarding the cracked tote, personally I would drill and counter bore a hole straight down. Clean out the crack and use hide glue, then insert a screw in the hole and use this as a "clamp", but leave it in there, and plug the hole with beech ( no glue on the plug). Odds are the tote will crack in the same spot if it is dropped, and other glues are hard to remove if it needs to be repaired. The plug is easily removed and the screw acts as a strengthening post.

    Regards,
    Edward S. Vancouver Kanada

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    1. Unknown20 February 2017 at 09:54

      Hi Edward,
      thanks. I'm glad that you enjoy my blog. Great to know that someone out there is reading it ;-)
      Your tip make sense to me too. I will take it into account.
      Hope to talk soon.
      Cheers,
      Stefan
      Stefan

      Delete

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