Wednesday 9 November 2016

Fall Front Toolbox (Pt.1)

Time is running. I'm on a hurry. 

Always mindful not to make unnecessary mistakes.

Despite the pressure I'm working concentrated and productive.





The week before I have started the fall front toolbox project. Twenty dovetails had to be cut. That's a lot of dovetail practice.
For this build I have changed my usual procedure. Usually I had cut dovetails at the first end, then made the corresponding pins and went over to the next corner and so forth.
This time I've cut all dovetails first, then marked all pins, cut them and finally fitted the joints into each other.
That's more a production approach, but worked pretty well for me.
I believe that I could make it this way, because I feel more confident in making dovetails meanwhile.


Bottom and two sides assembled

As well I think my dovetails are getting better. The tails are right from the saw and the pins are sawn close to the line and only the last bits are pared.


Pins and tails right after assembly

Before I have cut and fitted the top I couldn't resist and gave it a try. How will it look with some planes inside?


Jack and smoother for a test fit

Well, the carcass is done. It's close to square right after the assembly.


Carcass completed

In the picture above you can see the lower rail for the front. The fall front frame will sit on this.

The next step is to make the frame for front and back.

The Front Frame


The panel frame for the front is divided into two parts. A base rail and the actual frame.


Front frame parts

The base rail will be fixed at the front of the box. The frame will the be mounted onto it with piano hinges. This is at least the plan. Question - Would you inset the piano hinges, or just screw it on?

After laying out the mortises I've started chopping them and messed up the first inside wall with the chisel.
So I've switched the method to drilling out the waste first and then paring to the finished result. And afterwards I switched back to chopping. I have chopped the mortises the first time with a mortise chisel and I'm amazed how quick you can make the mortise holes. Especially if they won't be seen afterwards.


First joint done

Making the joint went well so far. Apart from two little issues. I have got some break out at the stile and one of the inside walls had to be pared a bit because irregularities steered the stile out of plumb.


First rail and the stiles are done

I'm done with the lower rail and the tenons of the stiles for the lower rail. 
Next is to make the tenons for the upper rail. And then a raised panel will be made as filling.

Meanwhile I'm good on track, but time is running. Hope I can get it done in time. 

Stay tuned!
Stefan



14 comments:

  1. Nice looking dovetails.
    I think that I would insert the piano hinge, but it depends a bit on how wide it is compared to the stock.
    If there is just say 2 mm left, then I think that I would just screw it on. But if you are able to get 5 mm wood behind the hinge, then it will look great if inserted.
    But since piano hinges cover the entire length, I don't think it is so important to insert those compared to a normal hinge.

    Brgds
    Jonas

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Jonas,
      thanks for the nice words about the dovetails.
      Regarding the hinges, that's a good point. And thinking twice about inserting the hinge makes clear that it will be an easy task. It is just a rabbet from end to end.
      Think I will do it.

      Cheers,
      Stefan

      Delete
  2. It depends upon the hinge and whether or it is swaged. Look at this:http://www.marlborohinge.com/hinge-terminology

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Ralph,
      as far as I found out I can't get swaged continuous hinges easily here. So, no they aren't.
      Thanks for the link.
      Cheers,
      Stefan

      Delete
  3. I'd inset the hinge, some of the weight will rest on the rebate's shoulder instead of solely on the fasteners.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi George,
      thanks for the hint. That makes totally sense to me.
      I will consider this.

      Cheers,
      Stefan

      Delete
  4. The dovetails are looking good, Stefan. And the wood you used looks really good - it's hard to find pine looking so good where I live. For the hinges, it's a personal preference and can be based on how you want it to look. If you don't inset them and it will bug you in the future, then I would do it. If you don't think you will ever notice, then maybe not.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Matt,
      thanks for your kind words. The wood is from a wood trader and not a big box store. In Germany that is called grade 0/1 and is called cabinet makers grade. This is not what the hobbyist usually is buying ;-)
      The nice thing is, that it is cheaper to get this as to get the crappy stuff from the big box. You just have to have the courage to go to the wood trader and to say you will need two boards :-)) Seeing the face falling is invaluable.

      Cheers,
      Stefan

      Delete
  5. Your carcase looks really nice. As for the hinge, if the hinge extends the full width of the box, then probably not. I put a heavy duty Lee Valley piano hinge on mine which has so many screws strength is not an issue.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Andy,
      thanks for the kind words.
      The plan is to have the hinge over the full length.
      My gut is saying "insert it" the time is saying " too much effort" :-)
      But thinking twice about it let me realize that it is just a rabbet from end to end and easy to make.

      Cheers,
      Stefan

      Delete
  6. Stefan,

    I'll join the rest, the case looks nice and like Matt I wish I could find some nice Eastern Pine to work with.

    ken

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Ken,
      thanks for your feedback.
      I had the problem to find the right wood too. I've tried all the wood traders in my area. And now I have got favored dealers for specific species.
      Cheers,
      Stefan

      Delete
  7. Very nice looking dovetails, could not get much better... :-)
    I never bothered inseting my piano hinges, but that may be because im lazy.. err efficient I meant :-)

    Bob and Rudy

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    Replies
    1. Hi Bob,
      nice to hear from you. Thanks for the kind words.
      I think I would have been efficient similar to you.
      But I guess the hinges I can get will not fit the thickness of the material. So I will follow Jonas's proposal.
      Cheers,
      Stefan

      Delete