tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523923067078512976.post6736614397644865266..comments2023-10-23T10:03:29.531+02:00Comments on Blue Spruce Woodshop: Planes with Green MedallionsAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17569365598390231433noreply@blogger.comBlogger11125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523923067078512976.post-14432803324217434802016-04-10T01:21:23.288+02:002016-04-10T01:21:23.288+02:00To treat or not to treat with oil?
Normally that a...To treat or not to treat with oil?<br />Normally that advice is for old (about 100 years old or so) wooden planes which are often found in a very dry condition. In your case, these are 20 th century products, not likely to suffer from excessive dryness, then besides conditioning the wood, it would not do much. <br />These were probably shellacked or varnished. If so just repair the finish.<br />Valley Woodworkerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07322487171914484954noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523923067078512976.post-77039368222130514492016-04-09T18:29:37.193+02:002016-04-09T18:29:37.193+02:00Hello Bob,
thanks for your hints and opinion.
The ...Hello Bob,<br />thanks for your hints and opinion.<br />The plane body has got some paint on it which you can't see on the picture, but I want to get rid of. Don't know what they have tried to plane. Maybe a coated door or so. Maybe I try just to sand these areas.<br />Due to ECE the plane bodies are clear coated. So does it make sense to treat them with oil?<br />I'm glad that I'Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17569365598390231433noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523923067078512976.post-85074050879595071102016-04-09T18:22:33.402+02:002016-04-09T18:22:33.402+02:00Hi Derek,
yes it is :-)Hi Derek,<br />yes it is :-)Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17569365598390231433noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523923067078512976.post-64687755498817127352016-04-09T18:22:02.826+02:002016-04-09T18:22:02.826+02:00Hello Matt,
thanks for answering my question. I di...Hello Matt,<br />thanks for answering my question. I did some investigation at ECE and they told me that the plane bodies are clear coated when they will leave for sale.<br /><br />Cheers,<br />StefanAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17569365598390231433noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523923067078512976.post-68468801449056275382016-04-09T18:20:07.595+02:002016-04-09T18:20:07.595+02:00Hello Paul,
thanks for your comment. That's a ...Hello Paul,<br />thanks for your comment. That's a good hint and I checked the blade. But it is dead square actually and I guess I will let it as it is. Got some other plans regarding scrub planes.<br />Cheers,<br />StefanAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17569365598390231433noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523923067078512976.post-77543814617649743682016-04-09T18:18:19.099+02:002016-04-09T18:18:19.099+02:00Hi Ralph,
after a week I start to leave the flu be...Hi Ralph,<br />after a week I start to leave the flu behind me.<br />Yes, I recognized that I could have started with a coarser grit dring the makeover. Did so on the wider plane iron.<br />Cheers,<br />StefanAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17569365598390231433noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523923067078512976.post-34132120050291398462016-04-09T15:15:31.543+02:002016-04-09T15:15:31.543+02:00Nice finds. I like ECE planes I have a few, good s...Nice finds. I like ECE planes I have a few, good steel.<br />Before I do anything like sanding to the body, Ill gave them a good scrub, with your favourite wood soap (I used Murphy's Oil) once dry, treat with any penetrating oil, the old standby was BLO (caution with the oily rags). I would avoid any oil or wax in the frog and wedge mortise area.<br />I would probably not bother with any Valley Woodworkerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07322487171914484954noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523923067078512976.post-84919338501356860202016-04-06T23:45:13.758+02:002016-04-06T23:45:13.758+02:00What a haul!What a haul!Derek Longhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07919744398323462327noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523923067078512976.post-55718590730794896882016-04-06T19:11:08.332+02:002016-04-06T19:11:08.332+02:00Great find on those planes. You asked about treat...Great find on those planes. You asked about treating the wooden plane body after cleaning it up. I think it was fairly standard to use linseed oil or BLO to clean and protect the wood. Let it sit for a few minutes and wipe off the excess and let it cure for a few days. Then wax the body, but not the areas where the wedge touches the mortise. I was never sure whether or not you should oil Matt McGranehttp://tinyshopww.blogspot.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523923067078512976.post-34612121685319556682016-04-06T17:40:40.760+02:002016-04-06T17:40:40.760+02:00I've got a similar wooden jack set up as my sc...I've got a similar wooden jack set up as my scrub plane. Being lighter than a metal plane, it takes less energy to shove back and forth repeatedly, so I usually have it set for a light and narrow scoop, which again makes it easier to push and reduces the chance of nasty tearouts.Paul Bouchardhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02932534546505831256noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523923067078512976.post-78039547316814327042016-04-06T13:14:32.146+02:002016-04-06T13:14:32.146+02:00Nice finds. I do the same with my plane irons init...Nice finds. I do the same with my plane irons initially. Nothing compares to sandpaper for removing rust to bare metal. I usually start with 100 grit and work up.<br />Being sick sucks and I feel your pain.Ralph Boumenothttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10606484453109932074noreply@blogger.com